Hiking Near Phoenix - Aravaipa – The Grand Canyon of the Sonoran Desert
In our first post in our hiking near Phoenix series, we reflected on Devil’s Canyon and the splendor of the green and luscious Sonoran Desert vegetation contrasted against the reddish-brown rocks of the canyon cliffs in the late afternoon sun.
In today’s post, we shift our attention to The Grand Canyon of the Sonoran Desert: Aravaipa.
Located halfway between Phoenix and Tucson lies a stunning 12-mile gorge. Aravaipa Canyon is one of the finest hiking near Phoenix and backpacking locations in the Southwest. The canyon, a protected riparian area, is truly a desert paradise with a perennial stream, towering canyon walls, lush vegetation, and lots of wildlife. What makes Aravaipa so unique are its beautiful wilderness characteristics, including the lack of any well-defined trails– a rare example of what happens when water flows through an-arid environment. Besides magnificent scenery, we travel there during the first week of December for fall splendor. Aravaipa in autumn is magical, portraying the essence of the season. Blazing cottonwoods, willows, ash and sycamore vie with painted towering canyon walls for one’s attention.
As we hiked further the canyon walls steepened and the stream crossing became more frequent; Aravaipa is just as much about the sound of the water as it is the awesome scenery.
Part of the uniqueness of Aravaipa Canyon is hiking through shallow water ranging from ankle to knee deep. Five-Ten Canyoneering boots and neoprene socks make for perfect footwear for splashing your way through the creek: Aravaipa is an Apache name which means “laughing waters.” The stream is brisk and clear and cascades around boulders, gravel bars and plunges into pools.
The cavernous, buff-and-brown colored walls you see as you walk through the canyon from the east are composed of Hell Hole Conglomerate, which extends quite a way downstream. Here and continuing west, the Galiuro Volcanic begin and shape many of the side canyons. This mid-portion of Aravaipa Canyon displays impressive red, orange, and gray walls with columns towering over 1,000 feet. We enter a splendid side drainage; the name belies the nature of this winding tributary gorge. Cut from tan to buff conglomerates, Hellhole Canyon is a wonder to behold. The view around each bend becomes increasingly superb; beautiful fall foliage is present throughout.
We round yet another bend, past the gushing spring on the left. This side gorge, with its lush hanging gardens, springs and deciduous trees is a delightfully cool sylvan oasis in the midst of the Sonoran Desert. Hellhole’s ecosystem includes monkey flowers, maidenhair ferns, columbine, Arizona Walnut, Ash, and Sycamore, a wonderful riparian habitat.
As we continued walking, the chasm appeared shallower and more open, transitioning to a dryer environment. Then we heard it, the granddaddy of all hanging gardens! On the right stood this weeping cascade pouring from the rock wall, resembling rainfall. The scene was more reminiscent of Costa Rica than the desert southwest. I threw down my daypack and sat behind the waterfall, mesmerized. After more than a dozen trips to this canyon, I was delighted to still be discovering new sights of interest in this most hallowed of ground.
Edward Abbey, the famed western writer, summed it up elegantly:
“It seems to me that the world is not nearly big enough and any portion of its surface, left unpaved and alive, is infinitely rich in details and relationships, in wonder, beauty, mystery, comprehensible only in part. The very existence of existence is itself suggestive of the unknown – not a problem but a mystery. We will never get to the end of it, never plumb the bottom of it, never know the whole of even so small and trivial and useless and precious a place as Aravaipa. Therein lies our redemption.”